Saturday, November 9, 2013

endings


My time in Beijing is nearing its end—my last days here are usually a greatest hits tour of friends, places, food.  And while I’m terribly eager to return to my husband and dog, to my home and its many comforts, to friends, to family, I am inevitably thinking of all I will miss here. 
  • sights like this (China’s National Center for the Performing Arts):


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  • the opportunity and joy of needing to be a bit more awake and aware just to get through the day, to really have to pay attention to avoid small inconveniences (a missed subway or bus stop) as well as major mishaps (for instance, anything that could lead to a run-in with the authorities)
  • small grumpy dogs riding around in bicycle baskets:


  









  • negotiating and understanding a different political system and also trying to carefully observe its outward manifestations, as that is my bread and butter.  For instance, this sign spotted today in the subway, highlighting the need for better legal consciousness:


Sadly, those who most need legal consciousness in this society are not those likely to be riding the subway, but those riding around town in shiny black Audis and Mercedes with blacked out windows.




  • excellent coffee shops on every corner (Meadville, I'm talking to You.).
  • sights like this, at the Lama Temple.  I especially appreciate the guy on the right making his most cherished prayer wishes especially clear:


  • the challenges of thinking and expression in a foreign language, imposing an economy of words, the need to convey meaning with only the words you might have available to you.  Come to think of it, that might help explain signs like these:











  •  have I mentioned the food yet?
  • my lovely, incredibly generous friends:

















  • cats hanging out in the above-mentioned cafés:











  • buying bubble tea and getting to watch a short film, strangely resembling an airline safety video, with an oddly subversive pro-Taiwan message:

   

  • random occurrences like at my dinner this evening, when this man showed up with his 12-year old nephew, urging him to practice English with me, creating an instant opportunity for cross-cultural understanding and kindness:















I'm still mulling ways to continue blogging from the coziness of home...stay tuned!

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

signs


I have long said that China is a country that would really benefit from having two expert services on retainer.  The first is a really good public relations firm, qualified professionals who could tell China that calling people like the Dalai Lama things like “a wolf in monk’s clothing” probably does not do much for its overall international reputation.     

Also, these specialists could come up with a better slogan for China’s new regime than “the Chinese dream.”  Posters promoting this goal are all over the city, for example in Beihai Park:













The meaning, or lack thereof,  of the Chinese Dream has already been the subject of analysis by foreign observers like Ian Johnson of the New York Review of Books.   I do have one friend, a member of the Communist Party (are you listening, dear NSA?), who takes it somewhat seriously, but otherwise it’s become something of a joke, largely because of its utter unoriginality.  

Yet I’ve also spoken with numerous Chinese friends who all say that China does in fact increasingly resemble the United States, which is something I’ve also been saying for awhile.  This country’s chosen model of development, especially here in Beijing, looks a lot like the American way in certain crucial aspects.  The logic of life in middle-class, urban China is devoted primarily to making money and buying stuff, which seems to me to be the overall purpose of American society as well.  Life in Beijing is increasingly characterized by suburban sprawl, automobiles, consumerism, and overwork.  Everyday, packs of young men go around and use ever more of China’s precious trees to blanket subway cars with flyers advertising the latest housing development.  Today’s was an apartment complex that seemed to think it was an asset that it is located 70 kilometers (about 45 miles) from the Beijing International Airport.  Did I mention suburban sprawl? 

(I will allow you to do your own reading and draw your own conclusions about questions of similarities relating to civil liberties, democracy and elections, and inequality in China and the United States.)

The other service from which I’ve thought China could really benefit would be that of an army of proofreaders.   I won’t dwell here on the infinite number of amusing/totally misguided signs you can find here.  Some of you have already seen some language from menus.    I also like the English rendition of this restaurant’s name (which more literally can be translated as “spicy mother-in-law”):




















In a public restroom was this:

 


















Yet, the more I’m here, the more I find these charming and hope they don’t go the route of grammatical correctness.  

More serious are the ones in Chinese, like this one:













It was posted in the window of a restaurant, advertising for servers and people to work in the kitchen for about $350-450 per month, likely working 7 days per week with long hours.  I'll let you try to figure out the hourly wage.

Finally, there is this encouraging sign for those of you who know of my concern for elephants and the illegal trade in wildlife products:


 












Hopefully this mother's elephant's conversation with her calf on a subway platform sign is self-evident to all--"ivory belongs to elephants."

Saturday, November 2, 2013

real


Some of you may recently have seen this photo circulating on various news-related websites (and on my Facebook page):












This image of a ghostly man hovering over an impossibly tiny old woman was in short order revealed to be a badly photoshopped effort by local officials to show how much they care about the laobaixing, “the old hundred names” or the ordinary people here.  Alas, this was not the first such “photoshop fail” as also recently there was this:














Which subsequently became something of a meme, with the Chinese internet featuring examples like this:













and this:














China is of course notorious for producing things of dubious authenticity.  The famous/infamous artist Ai Weiwei has even named his architectural/design studio FAKE Design  (in Chinese, pronounced fa-ke, which of course sounds like a Bad English Word). When he was detained, allegedly for tax evasion, in 2011, he started calling the situation the “Fake Case.”   And, recently and relatedly, The New York Times featured an extensive report regarding the plague of forgery in China’s increasingly profitable fine arts market.

Apparently this art forgery has even produced tragic consequences.  More widely, the problem of fakery in China is especially prominent and dangerous with respect to food products.  For instance, Chinese products are killing our dogs. (Our dogs!)  Worse, even to dog lovers, was the the notorious case a few years ago of Sanlu dairy, which spiked its infant formula with melamine to raise protein measurements, killing and sickening larger numbers of babies here.    Now apparently even bubble tea is dangerous.  (Bubble tea?!  Are you f---ing kidding me!?) 

For these and other reasons, many people here consequently do not trust their own economic and political institutions.  Importing infant formula after trips abroad is a popular pastime.  There are numerous potential ways to interpret these events, partially depending on one’s own political inclinations.  I lean towards attributing many of these problems to the high rate of economic growth here.  It is literally out of control, toxic to all who spend time here and of course most so to those who have no way of coming and going as I do.  I am here partially doing research on volunteers in environmental organizations and one of the leading reasons I’ve heard for becoming involved in such activism is rising rates of cancer. 

But what to do if your entire society is cancerous?  When the toxicity has spread from the literal air that people breathe to social and political trust? This apparent breakdown in social trust is largely a result of two factors.  First was the utterly destructive force of the Cultural Revolution.  And then, pretty much right after that, was the creation of a winner-take-all market economy.  Where are people supposed to get their sense of meaning, of value, of social responsibility in this poisonous blend of lost values and solely profit-oriented activity?

Yet, I do not want to solely dwell on negatives, as we can rely on the American media to do that just fine.  As I’ve said already, there are good and courageous people here who are seeking to change things.  In fact, the mode of relating I encounter here seemingly more than any other is simple kindness.  Daily I encounter people willing to smile, to help, to offer a compliment about my ever-evolving skills with the Chinese language.  The other day, a man claimed that my Chinese was better than the woman working the cash desk in his little shop.  I asked where she was from and he said “China!”  Then I said, no, “where is her hometown?” and he said, “Hunan!”  A southeastern province where the Chinese is not exactly biaozhun or “standard” (which really just means “as it is in Beijing, the city that is so dominant in this massive country that the whole country is one time zone, Beijing time, lest you provincial types and ethnic minorities forget where The Man really resides”).

Could this all just be “fake” as well?  I’m sure that some of it results from my status as a visible foreigner, sometimes the only one around.  It could just be superiority or disdain (“look at the foreigner trying to speak our language!”) rather than kindness.  But as an academic I must too often swim in the slimy waters of Unctuous Elitist Condescension, so I know that when I see it, and, whatever this is, it is not That. 

I confirm that suspicion by a correlate experience, that of the actual existence of honesty in this country.  Despite all of the deceitful and sometimes outright malicious behavior I’ve already discussed, I also daily encounter people of incredible honesty.  Once it was a man selling me oranges in the produce market—the cost was 9 RMB and I gave him a 10 and asked him to keep the change, so he put an extra orange in my bag.  Or the guys from whom I sometimes buy my breakfast pastries (or bing !) in the morning on my way back from running in the park.  Two bing are 1.8 RMB—they could just charge me 2 and I’d not ever know or care about the difference (which is about 3 cents), but they still charge me that 1.8.  Or, yesterday, I was trying to feed two small, lost, stray dogs on the street and saw that someone else had the same idea:
















And, finally, yesterday there was this.  A man near the art museum doing water calligraphy on the street offered his brush to me so I wrote, “China is good” (see, totally impressive Chinese language skills!):















He responded with “American friends are good”:















These gestures, of kindness, of honesty, of compassion, give me hope that good exists all over the place here.  You just need to take the time to find it.