Thank you so much for asking!
6 ½ years ago I spent a semester in China, doing research on
a Fulbright and also running the Great Wall Marathon. The Insider’s Guide to
Beijing had a section called “running in Beijing,” which began with a
sentence going something like, “I know what you are thinking—why not just get
on a treadmill and light up a brique of coal”? Thus, the name of this blog was born. All the stuff below is a chronicle of
that experience.
Yesterday I spent a really wonderful day with some great
friends, eating a lunch supposedly favored by Ming emperors when they visited
the countryside to get away from the renao
of Beijing. Renao is a word denoting “lively” but
literally meaning “hot and noisy”—usually it is used here in a complimentary
fashion, as in, “it is a really renao
restaurant, you should go!” If the
Beijing of the 16th and 17th centuries was too renao for those spoiled royal dudes, I’d
hate to think what they would have made of it yesterday. The sky was cloudless but not
blue—it was more like an ominous shade of yellow. Bad for photography.
And lungs. This
time, before I departed home, I started following @BeijingAir on
Twitter, which is the feed of the United States Embassy’s air quality
monitor. A few years ago, because
the air quality index was over 500, the Embassy caused a stir by describing it
as “crazy bad” in a Tweet.* In America we have the color-coded
Homeland Security Advisory System, letting us know how worried we need to be
about terrorism. Here, there is
this:
You
can see that above 500 is in fact off the charts. In fact, in the American terrorism warning system thingie,
red is the worst color, but on the air quality index chart there are two colors
that are worse than red. Due to the “crazy bad”
international incident, causing China to “lose face” about its all-too-obvious
pollution problem, some detective work is needed** to realize that @BeijingAir is in fact still the U.S.
Embassy’s air quality feed. It now posts things like this when the
air is particularly (or particulate-ly) bad:
My eyes do burn pretty much
constantly. Perhaps an investment
in whatever corporation is responsible for Visine might make up for my Beijing real
estate fail.
This morning I ran 11 miles and before I went out checked @BeijingAir
and found today’s number:
Not a good
air quality day, but I ran anyway. It’s like acclimatizing to high
altitude—best done before the big event.
For awhile breathing was difficult but then it got a little better. 11 miles is three laps of
Houhai-Shichahai plus the 1.25 miles to and from my apartment. I swear I heard a few people
saying things like, “Look at the foreigner running in the pollution!” But, then again, that might have just
been a hallucination of my jetlagged mind.
So, let’s review!
“Beyond Index”=”crazy bad.” Air China=China’s national airline. BeijingAir=a really depressing and
constantly-updated reminder of the unfolding environmental catastrophe in China. Yellow air=bad. Yellow day on air quality index=better
than orange, red, super-red, and extra-extra-red!
__________________
*This index is in fact that of the United States
Environmental Protection Agency, the same bureau that some members of one political
party love to hate (though it was established by Richard Nixon, also of that
same party), and that has had some 93% of its workforce furloughed due to the
government shutdown. The origins
of the index may help explain the Chinese objections to it, as an
indicator of American arrogance/socio-political-environmental imperialism. However, this also invites
consideration of two propositions.
(1) Members of Congress should spend some time in a place where you can
actually taste the air (say, Beijing) before they decisively vote to rid the
U.S. of the bane of environmental regulations. (2) Some things (for example,
determinations of air quality) may in fact just be freakin’ universal.
**or, in the 21st
century, some Googling—here it is Google Hong Kong because Google left China a
few years ago, ostensibly for political reasons but probably just because they
weren’t making any money.
1 comment:
Glad to be reading your blog again. My lungs hurt while reading about 11 miles in yellow sky crazy bad air. Maybe we'll visit you back in Meadville. Good luck!
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